CONDITION

     PROBABLE CAUSE

     CORRECTION

Engine cranks but will not start.

1) Choke not closing.
2) Choke linkage binding.
3) No gas in carburator
4) Accelerator pump defective or blown out.
5) No spark or engine problems such as bad compression.

1) Inspect choke adjustment and for something binding. Adjust if necessary.
2) Lube with WD-40 and check for something bent. Adjust if necessary.
3) Check fuel delivery. Look for plugged filter or clogged lines, bad pump, stuck needle & seat, and fuel pressure.
4) Replace the pump. Problem is usually caused by bad gas, dirt in gas, or vacuum leak or ignition problems causing engine spitback.
5) Diagnose & correct the problem.

Engine starts, then dies within a few seconds.

1) Choke not closing properly.
2) Big vacuum leak on engine somewhere.
3) Choke pull off setting incorrect.
4) Fast idle RPM set too slow.
5)Low fuel delivery.
6) Electrical or compression problems on the engine.
7) Float level set very low.
8) No electricity up to idle solenoid, or no ground.
9) Defective idle solenoid.

1) See notes above. Adjust choke if necessary.
2) Use vacuum gauge to check. Fix the leak. You may have put the base gasket on wrong or it is the wrong one for this carb & engine combination.
3) Adjust to factory specs. Carb can get bumped in shipping or transportation and can accidentally change the setting.
4) Adjust to recommended RPM.
5) Correct delivery to carb. Usually it is a plugged up filter.
6) Do complete tune up & diagnosis. Fix the problems found.
7) Check & adjust the float level to factory specs.
8) Check for power & ground. Correct the problem.
9) Replace it.

Engine normally starts OK but then dies backing out the driveway or at the first stop sign. After that it runs OK.

1) Choke not set tight enough.
2) Choke pull-off opening too much.

1) Set choke a little tighter & try it.
2) The setting varies depending upon the exact application. One carb may fit several applications. Set the pull-off so the choke is a little tighter.

Engine starts OK, increases RPM then gets too slow with lots of black smoke.

1) Choke set too tight.
2) Pull-off set too tight.
3) Slow flooding.
4) Float level very high.
5) Power valve blown. (only happens on Ford & Holley)
6) Pull-off diaphram blown.
7) (on Carter) Pump blown out
8) Sunk float.
9) Choke spring may be backwards and is getting tight when heating up instead of loose.

1) Adjust a little (1/8″) looser.
2) Adjust so it is open a little more.
3) Fix cause of flooding. (see “flooding” section coming soon)
4) (Rare) Set to factory specs.
5) Replace the power valve.
6) Caused by installer allowing engine to spit-back up through carb. Replace the pull off.
7) Same cause as #6 above. Replace the pump.
8) Same cause as #6 above. Replace the float.
9) Remove choke cover, cool off choke, reverse spring, reinstall cover and set tension to factory specs.

Engine starts, then races for a few seconds and then dies every time.

1) Big vacuum leak somewhere.

Correct the vacuum leak.